Muhahti State AB is one of three lots of Kenyan coffee we were able to get our hands on during our trip to Nairobi earlier this year. We cupped it with our friends at importer Sucafina, and this particular lot produced by Peris Wambui Karungondo at their estate in the Kiambu region is a blend of traditional (SL28, SL34) and new (Batian and Ruiru 11) varieties. Its juicy, sweet and tropical notes bring us all the best of Kenya in every cup.
Muhathi Farm is located at 1,700 meters above sea level in Kiambu County, Kenya. Located in Ngewa-Komothai in Kiambu, the farm has an ideal microclimate for growing specialty coffee. Warm days and cool nights favor the growth of sweet, dense cherries.
Peris works with the Sucafina/Kahawa Bora team to improve the quality of its coffee and the productivity of its trees. Field staff provide training and support in a wide range of farming and processing techniques.
Kiambu is just outside Kenya's capital, Nairobi, but is nevertheless known for agriculture, especially coffee and tea. The county is also home to the Kenya Coffee Research Foundation.
Kiambu County is also known for its dairy production and is the largest dairy producing county in Kenya. Many of the farmers here follow organic fertilization practices, using only cow dung instead of agrochemicals on their coffee trees.
Farmers in Kiambu face low production due to pests and diseases, while at the same time having to pay high prices for the various resources needed for their coffee plantations. In recent years, many have felt this pressure and have sold their land to developers, as the region borders Nairobi. Support from partners like Kahawa Bora, who help farmers build long-term profitability, can make a difference.
Muhathi is planted with 'traditional' coffee trees SL28 and SL34, as well as Batian and Ruiru 11. The SL28 cultivar was originally released by Scott Agricultural Laboratories (SAL) in the 1930s and 1940s. Along with SL34, it soon became the tree of choice for many growers in Kenya due to its deep root structure, which allows it to maximize scarce water resources and flourish even without irrigation. Batian is a relatively new variety introduced by the Coffee Research Institute of Kenya (CRI) in 2010. Batian is named after the highest peak of Mount Kenya and is resistant to both Coffee Cherry Disease (CBD) and Coffee Leaf Mold (CLR). The variety has the added benefit of maturing early, bearing fruit after only two years. Similar to Batian, Ruiru 11 is a new variety known for its disease resistance and high yields. It also starts producing fruit after only 2 years.
Peris receives regular training from Sucafina in Good Agricultural Practices, including fertilizer application, pruning guidance and renovation tips, which helps him keep his small farm in top condition.
Process
With its 8 hectares, Muhathi is categorized as a "small farm" in Kenya. Traditionally, many farmers of this size in the country do not operate their own processing equipment. Historically, they would deliver cherry to a centralized "factory" owned by a cooperative (as stations are called at Washed locally), where their production is combined with that of others in their region. However, Peris operates a small wet mill and processes his own coffee, ensuring full traceability of his cherries.
The cherry is hand-picked and then peeled in Peris' disc pulper. The coffee is dry fermented for 16 to 24 hours and washed with clean water to remove any remaining mucilage. The parchment is soaked for 12 hours and then transferred to raised beds where it is dried in the sun for 14 to 18 days. As it dries, the parchment is turned regularly to ensure uniform drying.
To service individual grower lots that are very small, Kahawa Bora/Sucafina has a separate micro-batch processing line that was custom-built to hull (remove parchment from green coffee beans) batches as small as one bag at a time. This setup is highly unusual in Kenya, and the line allows producers like Peris to maintain their own "brand" when selling their coffee. We believe this is a move in the right direction for Kenyan producers to gain market access to quality-focused buyers abroad.
Soon we will have the recipe for this coffee.
If you have any questions you can contact us at
[email protected].
